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BASIC 

BOATING 



U.S. COAST GUARD AUXILIARY 














































BASIC 

BOATING 



) 


U.S. COAST GUARD AUXILIARY 
THREE LESSON BOATING COURSE 



Copyright© 1979 
by 

The Coast Guard Auxiliary National Board, Inc. 
Washington, D.C. 


All rights reserved 


This book, or any part thereof, may not be reproduced 
without written permission of the copyright owner. 

Library of Congress Catalog Card Number: 78-74883 


PRINTED IN THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA 




Welcome to the world of pleasure boating 


The U. S. Coast Guard Auxiliary, a nationwide, civilian 
organization of your boating neighbors, is presenting this 
course as part of its continuing effort to promote safety in 
the boating field. Although a small charge is made to cover 
expenses of presenting this and other auxiliary courses, the 
auxiliarists who teach serve, like all members of the Coast 
Guard Auxiliary, without remuneration. 

We hope you will find BASIC BOATING interesting and 
instructive. We also hope you will want to investigate the 
advantages of membership in the U. S. Coast Guard Auxiliary. 
For more information, ask one of the auxiliarists presenting 
this course. 

Best wishes for a successful completion of this course as 
well as an enjoyable safe boating career in your leisure time. 



ROBERT L. HORTON 


National Commodore 


iii 














































































































Contents 


PAGE 


CHAPTER 1. Introduction to Pleasure Boating.1-1 

CHAPTER 2. Trailer Boating.2-1 

CHAPTER 3. Aids to Navigation.3-1 

CHAPTER 4. Maneuvering.4-1 

CHAPTER 5. Rules of the Road.5-1 

CHAPTER 6. Legal Requirements.6-1 



















































































Chapter 1 


Introduction to Pleasure Boating- 


Introduction 

Today’s amateur boatman must learn, in his or 
her spare time, the complexities of small craft 
handling that have been developed over centuries. 
This text and the three-lesson course that accom¬ 
panies it will teach you such basics as your legal 
and moral responsibilities afloat, selecting and 
operating typical small boats, aids to navigation, 
rules of the nautical road, and principles of boat 
trailering. 

It is not our intent (nor is it possible) to make 
expert small boat handlers in the time allotted. 
Only application of what you read and hear, further 
study, and experience can do that. Your instructors 
can suggest further Auxiliary courses for both 
sailors and powerboat skippers. Learn the funda¬ 
mentals thoroughly and use them under normal 
conditions in good weather, and you should en¬ 
counter no problems you cannot handle. 

Boat Types 

A boat is defined as a watercraft of virtually any 
size or kind, depending on who is doing the defining. 
Normal characteristics of the major boat types used 
on inshore waters are as follows: 

Rowboat: up to 16 feet in length, but usually 
smaller. Has a flat bottom with one or more pro¬ 
tective strips called skegs running its length. 


Interior contains two or more simple cross seats. 
Oarlock sockets are provided. A small motor may 
be mounted on the transom — the cross piece at the 
stem or rear of the boat. Simple, inexpensive and 
not very fast. Often constructed of sheet plywood. 



1-1 Rowboat 


Dinghy: a rowing or sailing boat used to carry 
passengers to and from a larger vessel. Often round- 
bottomed and quite tippy. Up to about 12 feet in 
length. 

Utility: as the name implies, a general-purpose 
boat of varying size and shape, suitable (but not 
specifically designed) for fishing, waterskiing and 
load carrying. Up to about 20 feet in length. 


-1 





1-2 Sailing Dinghy 

Runabout: fast and sporty powerboat often used 
for waterskiing at high speeds. 




1-4 Jonboat 


expect. Flat bottom boats are quite stable, unless 
a heavy load is applied to one side, when they may 
tip over suddenly, while round bottom craft are 
always easy to tip. A disadvantage of the flat 
bottom type is that as speed is applied, its bottom 
can pound the water unmercifully. V-bottom boats 
avoid this problem but the deep-V style, in which 
the hull shape is carried from one end to the other, 
is unstable at slow speeds and consumes a good 
deal of fuel. Ordinary V-bottom boats have the 
sharp shape only at the bow, or forward, end: the 
hull becomes flatter as one moves toward the stem, 
and this minimizes pounding at normal speeds 
while giving good stability. Other boats that do 
this well are the so-called gull-wing or cathedral 
hulls, which look in cross-section somewhat like 
the wings of an oncoming sea-gull. 

It has truly been said of boat design that one 
may have any two of the three most desirable 
attributes — performance, economy, or comfort — 
but seldom all three. Every boat is a compromise, 
and the prospective buyer must weigh his individual 
requirements honestly before deciding. A boat of 
a type widely used on the waters you plan to 
cruise is seldom a bad bargain, just as a very unusual 
kind of boat for your area is often not a happy 
choice. 


1-3 Runabout 


Jonboat: a rowing or slow outboard boat, often 
made of aluminum, with squared ends. A good 
load carrier. 

Hull Types 

The underwater part of the boat is in many ways 
its most important aspect. Flat and round bottom 
boats appear in cross-section much as one might 




1-2 
















Boat and Motor Selection 

The proper motor and boat combination is 
vital for safety as well as performance: Too small an 
engine, and a boat cannot get out of her own way. 
Too large a motor, and you run the risk of having 
the boat charge out of control. Newer boats are 
required by law to display a capacity plate showing 
the maximum weight the boat was designed to 
carry, as well as the maximum horsepower of.the 
motor. This information is extremely important, 
and you should never consider a boat that has a 
capacity too small for your normal crew and their 
normal gear. 



1-7 Horsepower Curve 


Older boats sometimes don’t have a capacity 
plate, but it’s not hard to figure out the proper size 



1-6 Capacity Plate 


of outboard motor to install. The boat horsepower 
curve shown below is easy to use: multiply length 
of boat (in feet) times width of boat at the stem 
(also in feet). Find the equivalent number in the 
left-hand column. Follow the appropriate hori¬ 
zontal line across to the right of the graph until it 
intersects the horsepower curve. Directly below 
the intersection is the number indicating the 
maximum horsepower engine for your boat. 


Types of Engines 

Most boats under 20 feet long have one or the 
other of two basic engine and drive systems. The 
outboard motor is a portable engine, drive shaft, 
propeller and steering system in one unit, with a 
separate plug-in fuel tank containing a mixture of 
gasoline and oil. Outboards range in power up to 
immense engines of 200 horsepower, removable 
only with a crane. The whole motor swivels on its 
bracket to direct the propeller stream and steer the 



1-8 Outboard Mounted on Boat 


1-3 







































loading: 

Keep the load as low as possible — that includes 
passengers! 



1-9 Outdrive 

boat, and the engine may also be pivoted out of 
the water, allowing the boat to be beached. 

Other small craft — and many larger ones — 
employ the outdrive (also known as the stem drive, 
I/O, or inboard-outboard). An engine like the one 
in your car is mounted inside the boat and con¬ 
nected through the transom - the flat section 
across the stem — to a swiveling, tilting lower 
driving unit like the bottom half of an outboard. 
Outdrives allow for larger engines on a boat, with 
the weight somewhat more fairly distributed. They 
are also more complex and more costly than 
outboards. 

Loading and Capacity 

As we saw above in our discussion of the capacity 
plate, a boat’s proper load consists of all the things 
in it — engine, fuel, people and equipment. In a 
small boat, individual weights have a great effect 
on the boat’s stability and must be carefully con¬ 
sidered. Remember the following basic rules about 


Don’t overload - the total of gear, people, and 
engine should not exceed the figure on the 
capacity plate. 

Distribute the load evenly — the boat at rest 
should float so that her waterline is even with 
the water and visible. 

The number of seats in a small boat is not an 
indication of the number of people the boat was 
designed to carry. Rather, the extra seats are in¬ 
stalled to allow different combinations of people 
and equipment to be distributed evenly. 

Loading Gear 

If you stand up in a small dinghy, the boat 
suddenly becomes unstable. To a lesser extent, the 
same thing happens when passengers and/or 
equipment are placed high in a larger boat. The 
lower down heavy weights can be placed, the more 
stable the boat will be. 

With a new boat, it often helps to load every¬ 
thing - including all the crew and someone to stand 
in for the skipper — then stand off at a distance 
and note whether the boat is riding evenly. If it is 
down at the bow or stem, or tipped to one side, 
the load should be redistributed so the hull sits 
evenly. Under way, the boat should ride with the 
bow slightly higher than the stem. If the bow is 
too high, the boat will have trouble attaining full 
speed and will pound badly. Bow-down boats push 
a lot of extra water and may even run themselves 
under in a heavy sea. Either way, a lot of fuel is 
used to no good purpose. 





7 


Jpi 


'H? 


AaA. 


7 



Too Much Weight Aft 


sy 'V 

Good Trim, On The Waterline Too Much Weight Forward 


1-10 Load Distribution in Boat 


1-4 





















1-12 Tilt Adjustment for Outboard 


Permanent bow up or down problems may be 
corrected by an adjustment of the drive shaft and 
propeller, as shown in the illustration. Flaps called 
trim tabs, at the stem, may also be added to the 
hull to level the boat. 



1-13 Tilt Adjustment for Outdrive 



1-14 Trim Tabs 


Anchoring 

The boatman’s anchor has been around for 
several thousand years in forms not unlike those 
used today. Yet many otherwise good skippers fail 
to understand its function. Whatever their shape, 
all anchors work in basically the same way. A blade, 


called the fluke, penetrates the bottom while the 
pull from the boat is directly down along the 
anchor line to the shank. 


-5 


For maximum effectiveness with any anchor, 
the shank should be as nearly parallel to the bottom 














as possible. This enables the fluke to dig in as 
firmly and deeply as the anchor’s design allows - in 
many cases, a prolonged pull will cause the anchor 
to bury itself completely. 



For the shank to He flat along the seabottom, 
it’s obvious that the anchor line must pull in that 
direction, too. And to achieve that Une of pull, 
one must use an anchor line of considerable length, 
relative to the depth of the water. This line-to-depth 
ratio is called scope, and the proper amount varies 
with the roughness of the water. 



Under normal conditions, for short-term anchor¬ 
ing, a scope of 5 to 1 — that is, -five feet of anchor 
line for every foot of depth from the bottom up to 
the boat’s deck — is considered adequate. If the 
boat is going to be left unattended, a scope of 7 to 1 
is better. If you’re anchoring in a storm, a 10-to-l 
scope is usually about right. In many of today’s 
crowded harbors, of course, a 10 to 1 scope is out 
of the question: there just isn’t that much swinging 
room left. In such areas, a length of chain between 


anchor and anchor line, or even an anchor line 
entirely of chain, will by its weight help flatten the 
angle between the anchor’s shank and the bottom, 
and reduce the amount of scope required. 

In addition, chain is more durable than rope, 
and so it makes a good insulator down near the sea 
bottom, where sharp rocks and debris may chafe 
the rope anchor line severely. Because of its weight 
and great strength, chain is usually used in permanent 
anchoring arrangements, called moorings, where the 
anchor will not be raised for months at a time. 

When anchoring your boat, a few tips will help 
you do it correctly. First, find a good anchorage — 
free from waves, traffic and wind. Even more 
important is the type of bottom (indicated in 
abbreviated form on your chart): Hard sand, clay, 
stiff mud - all are good. Soft mud, gravel, sheUs, 
and weeds are bad. 


S. Quality of the Bottom 


i 


Ground 

25 

Ms 

Mussels 

50 

spk 

Speckled 

2 

s 

S^nd 

26 

Spg 

Sponge 

51 

gty 

Gritty 

3 

M 

Mud, Muddy 

27 


Kelp • 

52 


Decayed 

« 

0, 

Ooze 

28 

Wd 

Seaweed 

53 

fly 

Flinty 

5 

Ml 

Marl 

Grs 

Grass 

54 

glac 

Glacial 

6 

Cl 

C/ay 

29 


Seatang/e 

55 


Tenacious 

7 

G 

Gravel 




56 

wh 

White 

8 

Sn 

Shmgle 

31 


Spicules 

57 

bk 

Black 

9 

p 

Pebbles 

32 

fr 

Forammifera 

58 

V, 

Violet 

10 

Si 

Stones 

33 

Gl 

G/obigerma 

59 

bu 

Blue 

11 

Rtf, rky 

Rock, Rocky 

34 

Di 

Diatoms 

60 

gn 

Green 

11a 

Bids 

Boulders 

35 

Rd 

Radio/aria 

61 

yf 

Yellow 

12 

C* 

Chalk 

36 

Pt 

Pteropods 

62 

Or 

Orange 

12a 

Ct 

Calcareous 

37 

Po 

Po/yzoa 

63 

rd 

Red 

13 

Oi 

Quartz 

38 


Ctrnpeda 

64 

br 

Brown 

13a 


Schist 

38o 


Focus 

65 

c h 

Chocolate 

»« 

Co 

Cora/ 

38b 


Mattes 

66 

ay 

Gray 

(Sa) 

Co Hd 

Coral head 

39 

fne 

F,ne 

67 

n 

Light 

IS 

Mds 

Madrepores 

40 

ers 

Coarse 

68 

dk 

Dark 

16 

Vo1 

Volcanic 

41 

sft 

Soft 




(Sb) 

Vol Ash 

Volcanic ash 

42 

hrd 

Hard 

70 


Vaned 

17 

Li 

Lava 


stf 

Stiff 

U 


Uneven 

18 

Pm 

Pumice 

44 

sml 

Small 




19 

T 

Tufa 

45 

Irg 

Large 




20 

Sc 

Scoriae 

46 

stk 

Sticky 




21 

Cn 

Cmders 

47 

brk 

Broken 



Fresh water 

22 

Mo 

Manganese 

47a 

grd 

Ground 

76 


springs in 

23 

Sh 

Shells 

48 


Rotten 



sea-bed 

24 

Oys 

Oysters 

49 


Streaky 





1-17 Chart Abbreviations for Bottom Type 


Approach the chosen spot into the wind, very 
slowly. Bring the boat to a stop, and as the wind 


1-6 








begins to move her backward, lower - don’t hurl - 
the anchor slowly over the side. When you feel it 
touch bottom, note the depth (many skippers 
mark the depths on their anchor line): continue to 



1-18 Depth Markings on Anchor Line 


pay out line until the scope is at least three to one. 
Now cleat the anchor line and put the engine in 
reverse, to dig in the anchor flukes. If the anchor 
catches, the anchor line will become taut. Shut off 
the engine and let out the rest of your scope. If it 
doesn’t catch, try more scope, then if that doesn’t 
work, raise the anchor, check for weeds on it or 
rocks jammed in it, and try again. 


To raise the anchor, move the boat ahead slowly, 
taking in line as you go, until the anchor line is 
straight up and down. If you can’t pull the anchor 
free, cleat the line and put the engine in forward. 
If that doesn’t work, try running the boat in a circle 
around the anchor, thus varying the angle of pull. 

Refueling 

The portable fuel tank for a small boat should 
never be refilled in the boat. Place it on the dock 
or somewhere away from the boat so that any 
spillage will not get into the bilge of the boat to 
create unnecessary hazards. The same precaution 
should be taken when adding or mixing oil with 
the fuel. 

A boat with an installed tank should have the fill 
pipe located outside the cockpit so that any spills 
will run overboard. When filling, the hose nozzle 
should be held in firm contact with the metallic 
fill pipe to avoid sparks. 

If there are any closed spaces on your boat, be 
very sure they are thoroughly ventilated before 
starting your engine or doing anything which might 
create a spark. Remember that gasoline vapors are 
extremely explosive and that this is one of the 
major causes of boating accidents. 


1-7 


Chapter 1 

TEST YOURSELF 


Choose the correct answer for each question. 

(The correct answers are given at the end of the text.) 

1. One of the outstanding characteristics of a 
row-boat is 

1. High potential speed 

2. Round bottom 

3. Flat bottom 

4. Steel construction 

2. The main use of a dinghy is to 

1. Serve as a tender to larger vessels 

2. Pull waterskiiers 

3. Cruise overnight 

4. Fish from 

3. An ideal boat for general use is the 

1. Runabout 

2. Utility 

3. Dragster 

4. Dinghy 

4. Flat-bottom boats 

1. Tip easily at first 

2. Never tip at all 

3. May tip when loaded unevenly 

4. Cannot pound at high speed 

5. V-bottom boats 

1. Pound more readily than flat-bottom 
boats 

2. Are actually round-bottom 

3. Are also called gull wing boats 

4. Are unstable at slow speeds 


6. When selecting a boat, one should 

1. Expect to compromise 

2. Weigh one’s requirements honestly 

3. Seriously consider a boat with local 
popularity 

4. All of the above 

7. The boat and its motor should be 

1. Matched to each other 

2. Bought separately 

3. Chosen without reference to each other 

4. Always built by the same firm 

8. The number of seats in a small boat 

1. Indicates the number of people the boat is 
designed to carry 

2. Is regulated by law 

3. Is designed to allow even weight distri¬ 
bution of varied loads 

4. Is noted on the capacity plate 

9. When refueling 

1. Portable fuel tanks should be refilled in 
the boat 

2. An installed tank should have a fill pipe 
outside the cockpit 

3. Do not hold the hose nozzle against the 
fill pipe 

4. Avoid ventilating closed spaces before 
starting engine 

10. An important aspect of successful anchoring is 

1. Proper scope of anchor line 

2. Protection from waves, wind and traffic 

3. Suitable bottom for the anchor to dig into 

4. All of the above. 


1-8 


Chapter 2 


Trailer Boating 


Introduction 

Pulling your boat behind the family car or station 
wagon can increase your cruising range immensely. 
However, it is important that the towing vehicle’s 
transmission and shocks be designed for the job 
expected of them. 



2-1 Cabin Cruiser on Trailer 


Larger trailerable boats with sleeping accommo¬ 
dations can even be used as travel trailers at camp¬ 
grounds along the way to the next body of water. 
Trailering is an art requiring both knowledge and 
skill, the information presented here is an elemen¬ 
tary digest of the subject. 

Trailer Selection 

In choosing a trailer, it’s important to match it 


to both the boat that will ride on it and the vehicle 
that will pull it. The three elements together — 
trailer, tow vehicle and boat - are an inseparable 
team. Normally, the length of the boat determines 
the length of the trailer, and the boat’s beam deter¬ 
mines the width. As many states have adopted a 
maximum vehicle width of eight feet for ordinary 
trailering, that beam is standard on many trailerable 
craft and one would not normally buy a wider boat 
to trail, as it would entail special permits in many 
states. 

In terms of effective length, measure the trailer 
from the aftermost support to the winch on its 
pillar forward. The boat’s transom, with the extra 
weight of the motor, should receive firm support 
from below, while the bow of the boat should be 
close to, and slightly above, the winch at the front 
end of the trailer. 

The boat itself should be firmly and evenly 
supported at as many points under the hull as 



2-2 Trailer Length and Supports 


2-1 












possible. Remember that a boat is designed to be 
supported evenly by water, not at a few points by 
rollers. Special support is necessary along the keel 
and directly under any built-in weight which cannot 
be removed when trailering. 


When buying a winch (if your trailer doesn’t 
already have one), make sure that it, too, can handle 
the boat’s weight, and that the winch cable (which 
may be rope or wire) has plenty of extra strength 
beyond that required by the boat’s weight. 



2-3 Supports Under Boat’s Hull 


Trailer capacity in terms of the weight it will 
carry is another factor. Virtually all commercially 
built trailers have a capacity plate attached to the 
tongue — the horizontal bar pointing toward the 
tow vehicle, with the hitch arrangement at its 
forward end. This plate will show the maximum 
load for which the trailer is rated by its manufac¬ 
turer. Remember that this is total load, and includes 
not only the boat itself but whatever equipment 
may be in the vessel when it’s being trailered. 


YARBROUGH MFG. CO., INC. ARLINGTON. TEXAS 


GAWffi - FRONT OR REAR ON TANDEMS 


376$ 6X13LRB 1 


1883 




#w; 


Most high-quality trailers have a number of 
adjustments which can be made to the frame to 
match the pattern of trailer rollers and supports to 
the boat. When your boat is first loaded on the 
trailer, take an hour to make sure the boat is evenly 
supported at as many points as possible. At the 
least, it’ll keep your boat from warping or springing 
later. 

Securing Trailer and Boat 

Perhaps the most important single point in the 
trailer-tow vehicle combination is the joint con¬ 
necting them. Known as the hitch, it usually con¬ 
sists of a socket at the forward end of the trailer 
tongue, matching a ball mounted on a heavy metal 
framework at the back of the car or truck. In 
place, the socket locks around the ball, so the 
trailer can swing from side to side without leaping 
free. Safety chains hold the trailer connected to 



2-4 Trailer Capacity Plate 


2-5 Trailer Hitch Socket 


2-2 














the car even if the hitch breaks. The two chains 
should always be fastened under the trailer tongue, 
as shown, to support it and keep it from gouging 
into the road if the ball and socket fail. 



2-6 Safety Chains 



2-7 Bumper Hitch - Inadequate 



2-8 Frame Hitch 


A bumper hitch, which is a temporary bracket 
clamped to your car’s rear bumper, is inadequate 
and unsafe for towing boats. Boat-and-trailer com¬ 
binations weighing up to about 3,500 pounds can 
be supported by a frame hitch, welded or bolted to 
the tow vehicle’s frame. Heavier boat-and-trailer 
combinations will drag the car’s rear end down. 
A weight-distributing hitch, which spreads the load 
to front and rear axles evenly, is what’s required 
for such large craft. 



2-9 Weight Distributing Hitch 



2-10 Outboard Motor - Up and Locked 


2-3 







With the boat firmly settled on its trailer, remove 
all equipment that can be carried in the towing 
vehicle. Small engines should be detached if 
possible, and larger engines should be tilted up and 
locked. No loose equipment should be allowed to 
rattle about in the boat when on the highway. 

In addition, the boat should be lashed in place. 
Besides the winch line, an additional bow line 
should hold the boat’s nose to the winch column 
and keep the vessel from lurching backwards when 
the car starts forward. A wide webbing strap, sold 



2-11 Bow Securely Fastened 


in most trailer equipment stores, should hold the 
aft end of the boat down on the trailer without 
scoring the gunwales (as rope would do). A pair 
of lines, padded where they cross the gunwales, 
should run from the boat’s deck cleat at the bow 
back to a point on the rear end of the trailer, to 
keep the boat from riding forward when the trailer 
is braked. 

When everything is in position and the boat is 
ready to roll, the weight on the foremost tip of the 
trailer tongue should equal between 5 and 7 per 
cent of the combined weight of the trailer, boat 
and gear. That is, if the trailer weighs 500 lbs., the 
boat weighs 1,500 lbs., and gear aboard weighs 100 
lbs. (a total of 2,100), then a bathroom scale placed 
under the trailer tongue should read between 105 
and 150 lbs. This proportion of tongue weight to 
towed weight will make for easy handling of the 
tow car and will keep the trailer from fish-tailing. 

On-the-Road Precautions 

Before leaving, make sure that trailer brake and 
turn lights are working properly, that the trailer 
brakes (if you have them) are operating, that the 
pressure of the air in the tires on the trailer wheels 
is correct. On the road, stop at least once an hour 
(and at any time if something feels wrong) to check 
the following: 

1. Boat tie-downs 

2. Trailer hitch 

3. Temperature of trailer wheel bearings 


Outdrive or 
Outboard -j 


Trailer 


Hull Tie Downs 


Winch Bow 


Lights -rr -/-.-v 

Wh^l 7 t '\ Tlre 
Bearings DraKes Pressure 


Trailer Hitch & 
Safety Chain 


Side 

Rearview 

Mirror(s) 



2-12 On-the-Road Check Points 


2-4 





















4. Trailer lights 

5. Trailer tire pressure 

Driving with a heavy trailer is quite different 
from handling the family car by itself. Allow extra 
time to pass other vehicles (and pass only if you 
must). If your trailer is considerably slower than 
other traffic on a narrow road, pull off every 15 
minutes or so. Others will appreciate it and you 
may prevent an accident caused by someone trying 
to pass you. Watch speed limits, which may be 
lower for trailers than for autos. When turning, 
signal and brake well in advance, then swing wide 
to avoid riding the trailer over the comer curb. 
Allow extra distance between you and the vehicle 
ahead, and brake early and easily. 


Launching 

At the launching ramp, set up your boat before 
putting her into the water. Not only is it easier to 
rig boats (especially sailboats) on level ground in a 
parking lot than on a sloping ramp, but you will 
also be out of others’ way and you will give your 
trailer wheel bearings time to cool off: If immersed 
when still hot from highway speeds, the bearings 
may well suffer considerable damage. If you have 
a sailboat with a metal mast or rigging, make 
absolutely sure that there are no overhead wires 
between you and the launching ramp before you 
set up the mast. Several people have been electro¬ 
cuted when their boat’s rigging struck such wires. 

The trailer’s lights (if they are low enough to be 
immersed) should first be removed and the boat 
freed of its tiedowns. Back the tow vehicle slowly 
down the launch ramp until the boat’s stem is at 
least partially supported by the water. A bow line 
should be made fast and handled by someone 
ashore, while a second person releases the winch 
line and eases the boat off the trailer. Leave the 
car engine running while launching, with the parking 
brake set and, for automatic transmissions, the gear 
lever in Park. 



2-13 Launching - Disconnect Lights 



2-14 Launching - Remove Tiedowns 


Recovery 

Recovering the boat is like launching, only 
reversed. Once the boat is eased aboard the trailer 
and lined up so the rollers support the hull, make 
fast the winch line and winch the boat into position 
for trailing before pulling up off the ramp. If the 
trailer hubs are immersed either during launching or 
recovery, check them to make sure wheel bearings 
are still fully packed with grease before driving off. 


2-5 




2-15 Launching - Back Boat to Water 



2-16 Launching - Ease Boat Off Trailer 


Maintenance 

After each use, especially in salt water, the trailer 
should be hosed off with fresh water, the wheel 
bearings and lights checked, and the frame bolts 
tightened. Out of season, the boat may be left on 
the trailer, but the trailer frame should be blocked 
up at the comers to take weight off the wheels and 
springs. A cover that keeps the trailer dry, as well 
as the boat protected, is a good idea, too. Touch 
up dents with rust-proof paint. 

Your trailer needs spare parts just as your car 
does. Make sure you carry the following with you: 

1. Complete spare wheel 

2. Wrenches to fit trailer frame bolts 

3. Wheel bearing grease 

4. Brake and turn light bulbs 

5. Jack (if your car’s bumper jack won’t 
fit the trailer) 

6. Spare wheel bearings 



2-17 Trailer Care 


2-6 




Chapter 2 

TEST YOURSELF 


Choose the correct answer for each question. 

1. In trailering your boat, the three elements 
that must be matched are 

1. Boat, trailer and road 

2. Boat, road and tow vehicle 

3. Trailer, tow vehicle and boat 

4. Boat, trailer speed and weight 

2. On a trailer, the boat should be supported 

1. At as many points as possible 

2. Never beneath the transom 

3. Directly under the winch 

4. All of the above 

3. The joint connecting tow vehicle and trailer 
is called the 

1. Sprocket 

2. Hitch 

3. Bumper 

4. Tongue 

4. In hitching the boat trailer to the towing 
vehicle do not use a 

1. Frame hitch 

2. Weight-distributing hitch 

3. Safety chain 

4. Bumper hitch 

5. To hold a boat on the trailer, one may use 

1. The winch line 

2. A webbing strap over the aft end of the 
boat 

3. A pair of lines running from the bow to 
the rear of the trailer 

4. All of the above 


6. If a trailer weighs 200 lbs., the boat on it 
weighs 700 lbs., and the gear in the boat 
weighs 100 lbs., the weight on the trailer 
tongue should be 

1. 100-150 lbs. 

2. 50-70 lbs. 

3. 1,000 lbs. 

4. 5-7 lbs. 

7. When trailing your boat, you should stop at 
least once an hour to check 

1. Trailer lights 

2. Boat tie-downs 

3. Weather reports 

4. 1. and 2. above 

8. When launching a sailboat with metal mast or 
rigging, be sure to 

1. Avoid electrical wires between you and 
the launching ramp 

2. Immerse trailer wheel bearings before 
launching 

3. Choose a sloping ramp on which to rig the 
boat 

4. Turn off trailer lights while under way 

9. After the boating season, a boat 

1. Cannot be stored on its trailer 

2. Must be stored only on its trailer 

3. Can be stored on the trailer, if the frame 
is blocked up 

4. Should invariably be left afloat 

10. Which of the following is not a useful spare 
part for the trailer boatman 

1. Spare wheel bearings 

2. Complete spare wheel 

3. Spare tumbuckle lifter 

4. Brake and turn light bulbs 


2-7 































































Chapter 3 


Aids to Navigation 


Introduction 

The land traveler has no difficulty telling when 
his car is on or off the road, but a seafarer has the 
problem of knowing which areas of water are safe 
to traverse and which are not. In addition, there 
are relatively few natural landmarks along the 
water’s edge, and this makes it much easier to be¬ 
come lost, even near shore. For these reasons, the 
U.S. Coast Guard has designed, built, and main¬ 
tained the world’s foremost system of manmade 
devices to mark dangers in the water (such as reefs), 
to aid mariners in locating their positions and to 
signpost the deep water channels which are safest 
for shipping. 


Aids to Navigation 

These devices — there are more than 40,000 of 
them in U.S. waters — are known collectively as 
aids to navigation, and while there are many types 
and styles, in this course we shall concentrate on 
the most familiar, the ones most skippers will see 
and use on the water every day. Collectively, these 
are known as the Lateral system of buoyage. 

For the sake of convenience, we will divide these 
aids according to their function - 


Channel markers: A channel is the deepest, most 
obstruction-free pathway a ship or boat can follow. 
While small craft seldom need to stay within a 
channel, the markers that line it on either side (and 
sometimes indicate its center) are useful position 
indicators for every mariner. In marking any 
channel, it is presumed that one goes from a large 
body of water to a small. Thus, a channel begins at 
the sea; a secondary channel begins at the point 



3-1 




where it diverges from the main channel. Channel 
markers may be fixed markers or lights, or may be 
floating buoys. Proceeding from seaward, red 
markers and buoys are on the right-hand side, black 
or green markers and buoys on the left. Many 
people find it easy to remember this fact by 
memorizing the three-word phrase “Red-Right- 
Retuming” (from the sea). 

Lighted buoys on either side and fixed lights 
have no specified shapes, but lights on the right- 
hand side returning will be either red or white, 
lights on the left green or white. Unlighted buoys 
marking a channel’s sides are also red or black. 
They also have distinctive shapes: red unlighted 
buoys are called nuns and are shaped like cones, 
point up, with the tip of the point flattened. Black 
buoys are called cans and are cylinder-shaped. 

All aids to navigation on the right side of a 
channel are red and even-numbered, beginning with 
2 nearest the sea; all black aids are odd-numbered. 

The middle of a channel may be marked by a 
black-and-white buoy. It can be any shape, shows 
a white light, and is striped vertically. Where a 
channel splits in two, or when there is an obstruc¬ 
tion in the channel, that point is marked by a buoy 
striped red and black in horizontal bands. It may 
be any shape and, if lighted, shows a red, green or 
white light. Neither mid-channel nor obstruction- 
junction buoys have numbers. 

Special purpose aids: These may be of any shape, 
and they indicate some special condition of interest 



3-2 Special Purpose Aids 


or importance to the mariner. Anchorages, fish 
trap areas, wrecks, dredging operations — all these 
are commonly marked with special-purpose buoys. 
More common are the special-purpose markers of 
the Uniform State Waterway Marking System. 
These are white buoys, usually can-shaped, trimmed 
with International Orange. They indicate controlled 
areas (speed limits, no anchoring, etc.), dangers, or 
information such as direction arrows. 

Location aids: Certain aids — usually large light¬ 
houses and fixed lights — may have no particular 
directional meaning, but simply serve as obvious 
orientation. Seacoast lights, which can be identified 
by light pattern or by radio beacon from miles out 
in the ocean, are perhaps the most obvious example, 
but many harbor entrances are marked by light¬ 
houses or light towers which can be recognized 
from many miles away. 



3-3 Lighthouse 


The Mariner’s Chart 

A chart is a form of map, and a map is simply a 
picture of the earth’s surface, drawn to scale and 
illustrated with symbols. Let’s examine that 
definition a bit more closely. We can see in our 
mind’s eye a photograph of the earth’s surface: 
thanks to modem rocketry, we see such pictures 
often, and a map doesn’t resemble them a great deal. 
For one thing, a map is rendered symbolically, to 
make it clearer and easier to read. On a given map, 
the water is one color, the land another, highways 
are drawn in red, buildings may be represented as 
tiny squares no matter what their real shape. In 
addition, a map is drawn to a predetermined scale, 
which simply means that everything on the map is 
reduced by the same percentage of original size. 


3-2 





A chart is a map which concentrates on matters 
of interest to the seafarer. That means it shows 
land objects which can be seen from a boat; it gives 
depths of water and heights of such structures as 
bridges and overhead wires. 

When looking at a chart for the first time, turn 
first to the Legend, the block of text immediately 
under the chart title. This will give you the chart 
scale - the relative size of things on the chart as 
compared to the same things in reality. Scale is 
usually expressed as the numeral 1 followed by : 
and a second number in the thousands or millions 
1 : 80,000, for instance, or 1 : 20,000. The first 
of these scales means that a lake on the chart is 
1/80,000 of its real size - that anything on the 
chart, except items shown in symbols, is 1/80,000 
of its real size. 


High Tide + 1.0 Ft Above Mean High 


Mean High Tide (Charted) 






Mean Low Tide (Charted) 



Low Tide - 0.9 Ft Below Mean Low 






3-4 Chart Legend 


On nautical charts, dry land is shown in a light 
yellow tint; land which is sometimes water-covered 
is tinted gieen. Shallow water is shown as blue and 
deep water as white. Depths of water are normally 
given in feet at low tide — so that at most times of 
the day there will be more water under your boat 
than the chart shows. At certain times, however, 
extra-low tides will make the water depth less than 
what’s shown, so you must still be careful. 

Heights, such as bridges and other overpasses, 
are given for high tide in tidal areas, so there is 
normally more clearance than that shown on the 
chart. Extra-high tides can, however, wipe out this 
safety margin. Both very high and very low tides 
occur during full moon and new moon days. 


3-5 Clearances from Charted Tide Levels 


Many features, such as the consistency of the 
bottom, marks ashore, and characteristics of lights 
on aids to navigation, are shown in abbreviated 
form. Somewhere on each chart is a paragraph of 
abbreviations covering most of the ones used on 
that chart. As you become accustomed to chart- 
work, you’ll begin to memorize these abbreviations, 
and in a short while they’ll become second nature 
to you. 

Buoys and fixed aids cannot be shown in their 
true form on a chart. Instead, buoys are shown as 



Anchor "Circle" 


3-6 Buoy Symbols 


3-3 















diamonds, in colors corresponding to the colors 
they bear, with a dot beneath the diamond indicat¬ 
ing the buoy’s exact location or a circle under the 
diamond indicating the buoy’s approximate 
location. When the dot or circle is surrounded by a 
magenta (light purple) circle, that means the buoy 
is lighted. Significant shapes (N for nun, C for can) 
are noted alongside the diamond, as is the buoy’s 
number which appears in quotation marks (“13”, 
“2”) and the characteristics of its light: F for fixed, 


FI for flashing, and so on. 

Dangers to the seafarer — rocks, wrecks, etc, — 
are also shown in symbolic form: Rocks especially 
concern the boatman, and they appear on the chart 
as crosses (+) or asterisks (*) when they are con¬ 
sidered a danger. There is a vast amount of in¬ 
formation on even the smallest chart, and continued 
study of your local charts will repay the effort 
many times. 


3-4 























Chapter 3 

TEST YOURSELF 


Choose the correct answer for each question. 

1. Federal aids to navigation are 

1. Designed, built and maintained by the 
U.S. Coast Guard 

2. Mark dangers in the water 

3. Indicate deep-water channels 

4. All of the above 

2. Channel markers may indicate 

1. The edges and sometimes the center of a 
channel 

2. The precise depth of the water 

3. Small bodies of water 

4. The lateral system of buoyage 

3. The key phase “Red-Right-Returning” means 

1. Always return to red buoys 

2. Red buoys are correct; all others are 
wrong 

3. Keep red buoys to the right returning 
from a large body of water to a small one 

4. Keep red buoys to the right returning 
from a small body of water to a large one 

4. Can buoys are usually 

1. Unlighted 

2. Red in color 

3. Black in color 

4. 1. and 3. above 

5. Can-shaped white buoys trimmed in Inter¬ 
national Orange are called 

1. Mid-channel markers 

2. Uniform State Waterway markers 

3. Seacoast lights 

4. Nuns 


6. The mariner’s chart 

1. Is never drawn to scale, unlike a map 

2. Is a type of map that emphasizes sea and 
coast features 

3. Shows streets and highways in detail 

4. Always shows water as blue in color 

7. A chart scale of 1:20,000 means that 

1. Any object on the chart is 20,000 times 
its real size 

2. Any object on the chart is shown in 
symbolic form 

3. Any object on the chart, except symbols, 
is 1/20,000 its true size 

4. All of the above 

8. On most nautical charts, dry land is tinted 

1. Light yellow 

2. Blue 

3. White 

4. Light green 

9. The chart symbol for a buoy includes 

1. Its number, if any 

2. Its light characteristic, if lighted 

3. Its shape, if that is significant 

4. All of the above 

10. The chart symbol for dangerous rocks is 
1 . ! 

2 . @ 

3. ? 

4. * or + 


3-5 

















































































Chapter 4 


Maneuvering 


Introduction 

Handling your boat in all conditions of wind or 
sea is both challenging and demanding: it’s also one 
of the most satisfying talents a skipper can have, 
and one that comes only with experience. The 
beginning boatman is well-advised to operate his 
craft under normal weather conditions and at well- 
controlled speeds until he knows exactly how she 
will behave in any maneuver. 

Although maneuvering is largely a matter of 
practice, understanding some basic theory about 
boat handling will help you figure out what’s going 
on — not to mention what to do next. And this is 
extremely important: The most valuable habit you 
can develop as a boatman is the ability to plan ahead; 
to know not only what to do next but also how to 
retrieve the situation if something goes wrong. 

There are two basic ways in which a boat travels 
— on the water and through the water. The first 
mode is called planing, and in it a vessel is moving 
fast enough so that it partially emerges from the 
water and skims along the surface. The second, 
slower type of movement is the displacement mode. 
A displacement boat cuts or pushes through the 
water, and its speed is limited by its size and power. 
All boats at rest are displacement boats, in that any 
floating object will displace its own weight of 
water. But high-speed boats can escape from the 
displacement phase and move far faster. 



4-1 Planing Hull 



In boat handling, both planing and displacement 
hulls follow the same general rules, but planing 
hulls are quicker to respond and are often more 
temperamental. One can make a mistake in a dis¬ 
placement boat moving five miles per hour, and 


4-1 








have time to correct it. At 20 miles per hour, you 
may well have an accident before you can correct 
matters. 

In addition, boats behave differently loaded 
than empty. Just how much effect a load will have 
depends on your boat, but the odds are that your 
loaded boat will be significantly slower — to move, 
to turn, to stop. She may be somewhat more stable 
(depending on her hull shape), but she will also be 
less able to rise and pass over waves. An empty 
boat is apt to be affected by the wind more than a 
loaded one — a point to remember when docking. 

Outboard and Outdrive 
Handling Characteristics 

Outboard and outdrive boats steer by changing 
the direction of propeller thrust. This makes for 
quick and accurate steering in both forward and 
reverse, but it does mean that there is a significant 
difference between steering a boat and steering a 
car. An automobile follows its front wheels around 
in a circle, and both rear and front wheels stay in 
the same track. A boat, on the other hand, turns 
at the rear, with the result that in a turning boat 
the bow swings inward and the stem swings out, as 
shown in the diagram. 

When steering in close quarters, as around docks 
or other boats, the skipper should allow for the 
swing of his boat’s stem and keep clear of obstacles. 
Backing up, the boat will follow its stem, being 
pulled along by the engine. 


boat and a car is the absence of a brake in the 
former. To reduce speed, one can usually throttle 
back, and the friction of the water on the hull will 
slow the boat quickly. But to stop, the engine 
must be reversed. This works easily and well with 
planing boats, which subside off a planing position 
quickly and mush to a halt. But heavy displace¬ 
ment hulls, such as engine-driven sailboats, will 
frequently coast for a long distance before the 
reversed propeller will stop them. 

Docking and Undocking 

The art of docking is likely to be a very public 
demonstration of the skipper’s skill — or the lack 
of it. When one has bought a new boat, it’s a good 
idea to spend a full afternoon docking and un¬ 
docking over and over again, approaching slip or 
pier from a number of angles, until the boat’s 
behavior on every heading is understood. 

Normally speaking, the best way to approach a 
dock is into wind and current, or into whichever of 
the two has the most effect on the boat. In this 
way, the wind and/or current will help slow the 
boat while allowing the skipper to keep her under 
control for the final approach. Aim at a shallow 
angle to the pier and just before the hull touches, 
put the engine into reverse to stop the boat’s 
forward motion. Now turn the wheel toward the 
pier and give a light touch of reverse to pull the 
stem in. With practice, you should be able to lay 
your boat alongside parallel to the dock and no 
more than a foot away. 


The most obvious difference between driving a 



4-3 Turning Pivot 


Entering a slip, the normal procedure is to back 
in. Check the wind or current effect first, if either 
or both seems likely to sweep your boat across the 
slip mouth. If the space allotted is short for your 
boat, you may be best advised to come in bow first, 
keeping your vulnerable (and valuable) motor or 
lower unit from getting too near the dock or bulk¬ 
head. 

When leaving a dock, remember that turning 
effect. Trying to drive your boat away as you 
drive a car from the curb will invariably result in a 
battered stem. If there’s space ahead, push the bow 
off to make a slight angle with the dock, and ease 
slowly ahead till you’re clear enough to swing out. 


4-2 






















Release 
Stern Line - 
Ease 

Ahead Slowly 



4-6 Leaving Dock - Wind on Bow 


With the wind on the bow, simply retain a stem 
line and let the boat’s nose swing clear while the 
line holds the stem in. Then release the line, 
engage the gears and ease away. 

Sometimes the wind will pin your boat to the 
pier. Departing under such conditions can be a 
problem no matter what. Often the best way is to 
back off. Turn the steering wheel away from the 
dock, put the engine in reverse, and pull away 
slowly, cushioning the boat’s bow with fenders or 
cushions where it strikes the pier. To get the stem 
out first, run a line from the bow aft to the dock, 


turn the wheel toward the dock and go ahead 
slowly. The boat will lever her stem out, and when 
it’s as clear as it can get, you quickly cast loose 
your dockline and back away cautiously. 

Use of Lines 

Mooring lines are used to keep a boat tied to a 
pier. The ones most often used are the bow line 
and the stem line. These are simple to set up and 
are usually sufficient for a short period provided 
fenders are used at strategic points to keep the hull 
from chafing. 


4-3 























































































* Hold 



If the boat is to be left for a substantial period 
of time, the use of breast or spring lines should be 
considered. Breast lines prevent sideways movement 
and spring lines limit the fore-and-aft movement of 
the vessel. If moored to a pier or wharf in tidal 
areas it is important to leave sufficient slack in all 
lines to accommodate the rise and fall of the tide. 


USE OF BOW. STERN. & SPRING LINES 




4-8 Mooring Lines 


Heavy-Weather Seamanship 

Sooner or later - but hopefully later - you will 
find yourself in seas and winds more rugged than 
you care for. Most modem boats are able to 


absorb more than their crews can take, so let the 
boat do as much of the work as you can. If waves 
grow to the point where they feel dangerous, the 
best tactic is to head into them at a slight angle, 
corkscrewing your boat over the crests in much the 
same way a highjumper goes over the bar. This will 
retain maximum control of the boat, prevent 
pounding, and present the boat’s strongest end to 
the waves. 



4-9 Heavy Weather - Angle Into Waves 


When the seas are coming at right angles to the 
boat, she may roll uncomfortably and even danger¬ 
ously. All waves are not the same size, however, 
and large waves and small ones tend to group them¬ 
selves together. You maybe able to run broadside- 
to during the small waves, then turn bow or stem 
to the seas when the larger waves arrive. 

A fast boat in following seas will usually not 
have too much of a problem staying under control: 
Ride the backs of the waves, synchronizing your 
boat’s speed to stay in the same place on the wave. 



4-4 












































If you get over the crest, however, and start running 
down the face of the wave, your boat may swing 
wildly from side to side out of control, and even 
roll over. For this reason, it’s a good idea not to 
run downwind in breaking seas unless you have no 
other choice. 

If it appears that you won’t be able to get back 
to home port before bad weather strikes, you 
should take steps to arrange yourself and the boat 
as best you can. Stow all gear firmly away — when 
a small boat rolls or pitches, equipment can fly all 
over the place. Make sure your pump is at hand 
and distress signals available, but in a dry place. 

The crew should all put on Personal Flotation 
Devices. Besides their buoyancy, wearable PFD’s 
will help keep you warm and will at least partly 
cushion you from bruises if you’re bounced around 
in the boat. The crew should distribute themselves 
so that the boat rides evenly, and should get their 
collective weight as low in the boat as possible. 
Stay away from any breakable glass windshields or 
from places where you may be thrown against the 
engine. 

Chances are that you will have no serious 
difficulty as long as you and your crew keep calm 
and as long as your boat’s engine continues to 
function. If the engine should stop, the best 
tactic is to anchor. Even if the water is too deep 
for the anchor to hold, the weight of it and the 
anchor line will hold your boat’s bow into wind 
and sea — the safest position in rough water. 


Distress Signals 

Should you require assistance, you should know 
the standard day and night methods for attracting 
help. In the daytime, standing in an open part of 
your boat (if you can do it with safety) and 
repeatedly raising and lowering your arms is the 
simplest distress signal. A horn or whistle, blown 
in repeated groups of five blasts (the danger signal) 
will also bring help, as will any loud noise, repeated 
regularly. 

A yacht ensign or U. S. flag flown upside-down is 
still recognized as a distress signal, but more visible 



4-11 Distress Signal - Arm Motion 



4-12 Distress Signal — Inverted U.S. Flag 

are the International Orange distress flags included 
in most commercial distress flare kits. 

Flares themselves — red for night and orange 
smoke for day - are probably the most effective 
short-range signals. Be sure you have enough, and 
don’t use them until you see another boat or air¬ 
craft that might be able to help you. 

But if you proceed with caution in a good boat, 
you may be the one who is called upon to help. 
Be alert for another’s distress, and assist if you can. 
If there is danger of imperiling your own boat and 
crew, then it is best to summon more professional 
assistance — the Coast Guard, Coast Guard Auxiliary, 
or Marine Police. 


4-5 



2. Fuel in tank. 



4-13 Distress Flares 

Engine Trouble-Shooting 

A great number of distress cases afloat are 
caused by engine failure. Difficulties with your 
engine - inboard or outboard - can be greatly 
reduced by proper maintenance according to the 
manufacturer’s instructions. If you don’t have a 
manual for your motor, obtain one from the dealer 
or manufacturer immediately. Make sure you have 
the recommended tools and spare parts aboard 
(and that you replenish spare parts, such as spark 
plugs, as they are used). 

If your engine does give you trouble, however, 
and if you don’t have information available for 
your precise make and model of motor, the follow¬ 
ing trouble-shooting tips may help: 

Outboard engine 

. . . Will not start; check for 

1. Throttle in start position and shift lever, if 
any, in neutral. 


3. Fuel line properly attached to both tank and 
motor, with primer bulb nearest tank. 

4. Carburetor primed by squeezing bulb. 

5. Fuel tank edge clear of fuel line; line not 
kinked. 

6. Engine choked, if cold. 

7. Engine not flooded — if so, push in choke 
knob, disconnect fuel line from motor and 
crank until clear. 

8. Dirty fuel pump filter. 

9. Water in fuel. 

10. Loose spark plug leads. 

11. Plugs dirty, burned, or wet. 

12. Plugs have improper gap. 

13. Plugs are loose, causing poor compression. 
. . . Idles improperly; check for 

1. Carburetor adjustment poorly set. 

2. Dirty, wet, or burned spark plugs. 

3. Improper fuel mixture. 

.. . Loses power; check for 

1. Dirty, wet, or burned spark plugs. 

2. Dirt in fuel or fuel pump filter partly blocked. 

3. Obstruction at water intake: cooling system 
not operating. 

. . . Vibrates excessively; check for 

1. Bent or damaged propeller. 

2. Carburetor poorly adjusted. 


4-6 



3. Steering friction control loose. 

4. Weeds or other material on propeller. 

. . . Runs but makes no progress; check for 

1. Damaged propeller. 

2. Weeds or other material on propeller. 

3. Sheared pin, if motor is so equipped. 

Inboard or inboard/outboard engine 

. . . Will not turn over; check for 

1. Discharged or low battery. 

2. Loose or dirty cable connections at battery 
terminals. 

3. Defective starter switch. 

. . . Turns over but engine will not start; check for 

1. Loose, dirty, corroded or damaged wiring in 
the ignition primary circuits — between 
junction box and ignition switch, wire to the 
coil and to the distributor. 

2. Broken, damaged or wet wiring in secondary 
circuit (large wires to spark plugs). 

3. Trouble in distributor: are points opening 
and closing as engine is cranked? Is opening 
proper width (about .020 inches)? Is contact 
button in distributor cap free to move? 

4. Bad spark: hold insulated spark plug wire 
about 1/4” from engine and turn motor over 
with ignition on. 

5. Overheated engine; may not restart until 
cool. 

. . . Turns over with good spark but engine does 
not start; check for 

1. Fuel in tank. 


2. Is fuel reaching fuel pump? Check filter or 
sediment bowl; line may be clogged or shut¬ 
off may be closed. 

3. Is fuel reaching carburetor? Shut off igni¬ 
tion, disconnect fuel line at carburetor and 
turn over engine to see if fuel is flowing this 
far. 

4. Is fuel reaching spark plugs? Check by 
removing plugs to see if they are wet, then 
check carburetor adjustment. 

5. Is choke operating properly? 

6. Is engine flooded? Open throttle and put 
choke in non-choking position, then crank 
engine with ignition on. 


Your Basic Tool Set 

As you own boats for longer periods of time, 
you will accumulate a reliable tool set. To start 
with, here are some basic items: 

Adjustable end wrench (Crescent) 

Slip joint pliers 

Pipe wrench 

Vise grip pliers 

Screw drivers (several sizes) 

Box end wrench set 

Hammer 

Gauge for spark plug and distributor point 
gapping 

Spare parts: spark plugs, fuel plump, shear pins, 
cotter pins, plus any additional parts recom¬ 
mended by your engine’s manufacturer. 


4-7 



4-8 










Chapter 4 

TEST YOURSELF 


Choose the correct answer for each question. 

1. In order to build up skillful boat handling 
ability it is important to 

1. Have a planing hull 

2. Gain experience 

3. Develop the ability to plan ahead 

4. 2. and 3. above 

2. In most cases, a heavily-loaded boat will be 

1. Significantly slower than when empty 

2. Higher in the water 

3. More able to rise over waves 

4. More nimble 

3. Steering in close quarters, the skipper should 

1. Realize that the stem swings in a tighter 
circle than the bow 

2. Allow for the stem to swing wider than 
the bow 

3. Be aware that the stem tracks the bow, 
like a car 

4. 1. and 3. above 

4. Given a choice, the best way to approach a 
pier or dock is 

1. Into the wind, and away from the current 

2 . Into wind and current 

3. Away from wind and current 

4. Into current, but away from wind 

5. When leaving a dock 

1. Handle the boat exactly like a car 

2. Always back clear 

3. Turn the wheel toward the dock and put 
the boat in reverse 

4. Push the bow clear, then ease ahead 


6. If your boat is in waves of dangerous size, the 
best tactic is to 

1. Head directly into them at full speed 

2. Run directly away from them 

3. Head into them at a slight angle 

4. Any of the above 

7. Besides providing buoyancy, Personal Flota¬ 
tion Devices will 

1. Help distribute crew weight 

2. Partly cushion the wearer from bruises 

3. Make it easier to move around in the boat 

4. All of the above 

8. If your boat’s engine should stop suddenly, 
you should 

1. Immediately make a distress signal 

2. Anchor the boat 

3. Have the crew sit in the stem 

4. None of the above 

9. Recognized distress signals include 

1. Red flares by night 

2. Orange smoke by day 

3. Repeated groups of five blasts on horn or 
whistle 

4. All of the above 

10. Basic engine tools include 

1. Adjustable wrench, vise grip pliers, screw¬ 
driver set 

2. Ball-peen hammer, tumbuckle, pole socket 
distributor 

3. Distress signal kit, fire extinguisher, small 
sledge 

4. Properly-sized oarlocks, boat hook, oar or 
paddle 


4-9 





















































Chapter 5 


Rules of the Road 


Introduction 

Traffic on roads and highways would be chaos 
without laws to regulate the right of way. On the 
water, where movement is less restricted, rules of 
the road are even more important. The nautical 
rules of the road have but one purpose: to prevent 
collisions. And while the rules of the road vary 
somewhat according to the locality in which your 
boat operates, most of the important rules and 
signals are the same. 

The Three Situations 

There are three situations which may lead to 
boats colliding: meeting head on; crossing each 
other’s paths; and when one vessel is overtaking 
and passing another. 

Meeting: Neither boat has the right of way, and 
each should swing right, then straighten course to 
pass left side to left side, as cars on the road do. If 
all boats stayed on their right-hand side of the 
channels, as they should, meeting situations would 
almost never involve risk of collision. But they 
don’t, and if your boat and the other craft are on 
the left sides respectively of the channel, it is better 
to pass right side to right side than to try to ex¬ 
change positions. 

If you must change your boat’s heading to avoid 
collision, then give one blast on your horn to 
indicate you are changing course to your right, or 
two blasts if you are changing course to your left. 



5-1 Meeting 


Crossing: When two boats are approaching each 
other at right angles, it can be hard to tell if a crash 
is in the making. Sight along some vertical part of 
your boat - a flagstaff or antenna - at the other 
boat. If his angle of approach remains the same 
over a period of time, then you’re in danger of 
collision. 

When boats are in a crossing situation, the boat 
on the right has the right of way. This does not 
mean that skipper can do as he pleases. He is 
required to maintain his course and speed, so the 
other boat’s operator can calculate the best method 
of keeping clear. The right-of-way boat should 
sound one blast of his horn to indicate that he is 
maintaining course and speed. The other boat 
answers with one blast, then turns, slows down, or 
takes whatever other action is necessary to avoid 
collision. 

Overtaking: The boat being overtaken always 

has the right of way, and the overtaking boat should 
take the following steps if it wishes to pass: 


5-1 








S = Stand-on Vessel 
Signals 1 Blast 


G - Signals 

2 Blasts 


S - Responds 

2 Blasts 



G = Give-way Vessel 
Responds 1 Blast 


5-2 Crossing 


1. Swing clear of the wake of the overtaken 
boat, preferably so that the overtaker will pass as an 
overtaking car does, on the slower vessel’s left side. 

2. Sound two blasts of the whistle. Wait for an 
answering two-blast signal from the overtaken boat. 
(Note: If for some reason the boat being overtaken 
feels it would be dangerous to be passed, he should 
immediately sound the danger signal, five or more 
short blasts.) 

3. Pass quickly. The passing boat must be clear 
ahead of the other vessel before the passing situation 
is ended. 


Passing to Port 



Passing to Starboard 



1 Blast 


1 Blast 


5-3 Overtaking 


a powerboat does not have the right of way (the 
overtaken vessel always has the right of way); a 
sailboat does not have right of way over a com¬ 
mercial fishing boat while it is fishing; no small 
vessel, power or sail, has the right of way over a 
large vessel in a narrow channel, when the large 
vessel cannot safely leave the channel. 

In fact, with respect to large commercial craft — 
tugs, freighters, ferries, etc. — small pleasure boats 
will do best to stay completely clear of them. Large 
ships and tugs with tows cannot maneuver easily or 
stop quickly. Right of way aside, it is very foolish 
to approach large ships closely. This applies even 
when a large vessel is tied to a pier. Her propeller 
may be still turning over, and it can reduce a small 
boat to kindling in the wink of an eye. 

When passing commercial docks and piers, be 
alert for one long blast of a ship’s whistle, which 
means that a vessel is about to pull clear from a slip. 
Three blasts of a whistle mean that a ship’s engines 
are in reverse and that she is beginning to back up. 


Fog Signals 


If you wish to pass on the overtaken boat’s right- 
hand side, then sound one blast and wait for a one- 
blast response before passing. 

Sailboats and Special Situations 

As a general rule, sailing craft have the right of 
way over engine-driven vessels, but it’s important 
to remember the exceptions: a sailboat overtaking 


In fog, normal right of way rules apply, but with 
the addition of sound signals that tell other boats 
what you are up to before your boat is visible. 
Besides these extra signals, it is the duty of every 
skipper in fog to operate his boat so that she can 
be stopped in one-half the distance of visibility. 

Fog signals differ in different areas. The follow¬ 
ing table summarizes them: 


5-2 














FOG SIGNALS 



Inland 

(Coastal Waters) 

International 

(Offshore) 

Great Lakes 

Western Rivers 
(Mississippi River 
and Tributaries) 

Powered Vessels: 





Single vessel 

Prolonged* blast 
every minute 

Prolonged blast 
every two minutes 

Three “distinct” 
blasts each minute 

Two short, one long 
blasts each minute 

Vessel towing or 
pushing another 

Prolonged followed 
by two short + 
blasts every 
minute 

Prolonged followed 
by two short 
blasts every two 
minutes 

Same as above 

Three equal blasts 
per minute 

Vessel being 
towed 

Same as towing 
vessel 

Prolonged followed 
by three short 
blasts every two 
minutes 

Four strokes on 
bell each minute 

None 

Anchored vessel 

Ring bell rapidly 
for five seconds 
every minute 

Ring bell rapidly 
for five seconds 
every minute 

Ring bell rapidly 
for three to five 
seconds every two 
minutes. Addition¬ 
ally, one short, two 
long, one short 
blasts on whistle 
every three minutes 

Ring bell rapidly 
for five seconds 
every minute 

Sailing Vessels 

On starboard tack, 
one blast. Port 
tack, two blasts. 
Wind abaft beam, 
three blasts 

Same as towing 
vessel, above 

Same as Inland 

Same as powered 
vessels, above 


* “Prolonged” = four to six seconds’ duration 
+ “Short” = one seconds’ duration 


Lights 

At night, of course, it’s much harder for sailors 
to tell what ships are doing. The beginner is well 
advised to stay off the water at night until he’s had 
a chance to accompany some experienced boatmen 
several times during the hours of darkness. 


lights on a car, a boat’s light system does not help 
the operator to see where he’s going — in fact, he 
will see best if his own lights are out of his circle of 
vision. Rather, a boat’s lights enable other vessels’ 
skippers to tell where a given craft is, how big and 
what kind she is, and which way she is moving. 


If you do find yourself out on the water at night, 
your boat must show the proper lights. Unlike 


5-3 


On inshore waters, most small boats carry a 
combination red-and-green light on the bow; it 
shows green to starboard (right), red to port (left), 







INLAND 

INTERNATIONAL 

SAIL ONLY 

SAIL AND/OR 
POWER 

SAIL ONLY 

SAIL AND/OR 
POWER 

Under 

26’ 

26’ thru 
65’ 

Under 

26’ 

26’ thru 
65’ 

Optional if 
Under 12M 

Under 
20 M 

Under 

20M 

Masthead 

IJLJ) or Bow 

20 Pts = 225° 




• 

Bow 



• 

Masthead 

/pTr\ Combination 
Bow 

Red & Green 

• 


• 



• 

t 

| no | 

• 

t 

| np | 

/C] HN Side Lights 
(JiJ Ixj Red & Green 

10 Pts = 112.5° Ea Side 


• 


• 


|U H I 

\ 

• 

l UH 1 

1 

• 

/r|q\ Masthead 
Red, Green, 

& White 





• 



Masthead 
r; ]qJ Red Over 

Green 






Plus 

• 

Optional 


Z' \ Masthead 

( W J or Stern 

^-' 32 Pts = 360° 



• 

• 




12 Pts = 135° 

/s. Aft 

<W> 

• 

• 




• 

• 


7M = 7 Meters = 23 Ft 12M = 12 Meters = 39.4 Ft 20M = 20 Meters = 66 Ft 


► Anchor Light: Single-fixture 360° White Light, Displayed by All Vessels at Anchor at Night 
UNDER INTERNATIONAL RULES: 

(1) . A power-driven vessel of less than 7 meters with maximum speed less than 7 knots may, in lieu 

of the lights specified, exhibit an all-round white light. Such vessel shall, if practicable, also 
exhibit sidelights. 

(2) . A sailing vessel of less than 7 meters shall exhibit the specified lights if practicable. If she does 

not, she shall have ready at hand an electric torch or lighted lantern showing a white light which 
shall be exhibited in time to prevent a collision. 

5-4 Light Requirements 


5-4 























and both colors from dead ahead. It can be seen 
from slightly aft of amidships, but not by someone 
overtaking. The same boat will also carry a white 
light aft, high enough to be seen all around the 
horizon. A sailboat carries the same bow light as a 
powerboat, but a smaller white light, which can be 
seen only from astern of it by another craft over¬ 
taking. 

Vessels 26 feet and over carry separate red and 
green lights — red to port, green to starboard, plus 
the all-around white light and a second white light 
forward that covers the same arc as the combination 
of red and green. 

Rowboats under way and boats at anchor show 
a single white light to indicate their position. 

There are many different patterns of lights carried 
by various kinds of watercraft. Generally speaking, 
if you see a white light only, you are overtaking; if 


you see a red light or a red and a white, you are 
looking at another boat’s left side, and if you are 
crossing his path, he has the right of way. If you 
see a green light or a green and a white, you are 
looking at a boat’s right side; if the two boats are 
converging, you have the right of way. And if you 
see both red and green, with or without a white 
light, another vessel is heading right at you. 

If in doubt, stop your boat — day or night — and 
sound the danger signal. It’s better to waste a 
couple of minutes sorting matters out than to have 
a crash or even a near miss. Stay clear of large 
clusters of lights on the water — these frequently 
indicate work, such as dredging, which can involve 
equipment dangerous to small craft. 

As in fog, keep your boat’s speed down to slow 
cruising at night, and make sure that everyone in 
the crew is alert. 


5-5 


Chapter 5 

TEST YOURSELF 


Choose the correct answer for each question. 

1. The purpose of the rules of the road is to 

1. Make sure one boat is in the right 

2. Prevent collisions 

3. Allow high speeds on the water 

4. Prevent overtaking 

2. When two boats are meeting head-on or 
nearly so 

1. Both have the right of way 

2. The right-hand boat has the right of way 

3. Neither has the right of way 

4. The situation is known as crossing 

3. In a crossing situation, involving two power¬ 
boats 

1. The boat on the right has the right of way 

2. The boat on the left has the right of way 

3. Neither has the right of way 

4. The boat with right of way should keep 
clear 

4. A boat being overtaken by another 

1. Never has the right of way 

2. Always has the right of way 

3. Has the right of way only if the over¬ 
taking boat is a sailboat 

4. All of the above 

5. When overtaking another powerboat, you 
should 

1. Swing clear of its wake 

2. Sound appropriate whistle signal and wait 
for the same signal in response 

3. Pass quickly 

4. All of the above 

5 


6. With respect to powerboats, sailboats 

1. Always have the right of way 

2. Generally have the right of way, with 
some exceptions 

3. Never have the right of way 

4. Are invariably faster 

7. When in the presence of large, commercial 
craft, small powerboats 

1. Should maneuver close behind them, to 
stay near the propeller 

2. Should stay completely clear of them 

3. Should insist on the small boat’s right of 
way 

4. 1. and 3. above 

8. When anchored in a fog, you should 

1. Sound a single blast on your horn every 
five minutes 

2. Make no sound at all 

3. Ring a bell to indicate your boat is not 
under way 

4. All of the above 

9. When overtaking another boat at night, you 
should see its 

1. Red-and-green lights 

2. White stem light 

3. No light 

4. Occulting light 

10. At night, if you see a green and white light, 
moving together in the same direction, you 
are probably looking at another boat’s 

1. Stem 

2. Left side 

3. Right side 

4. None of the above 


Chapter 6 


Legal Requirements 


Introduction 

The responsibilities under law of the average 
boatman are not very complicated. He must usually 
register his boat with the proper authorities, keep 
them notified of sale, transfer or change of address, 
and equip the craft with certain basic items of 
equipment. This last requirement is the most diffi¬ 
cult to observe, because required equipment varies 
with size of boat and with changing regulations, 
but it should present no great problem to the 
reasonably aware boatman. 

Equipment Requirements 

In specifying what equipment a boat must carry, 
the Coast Guard, under the Motorboat Act, works 
within four boat-length categories: boats up to 16 
feet in length, boats from 16 feet up to 26 feet, 
26 feet up to 40 feet, and boats from 40 feet 
through 65 feet. Let’s examine the various items 
of gear required in each length group. 

The new International Rules of the Road specify 
lengths in metric units. Lengths used there and of 
interest to us are 7 meters (23.0 feet), 12 meters 
(39.4 feet), 20 meters (65.6 feet) and 50 meters 
(164.0 feet). 

Personal flotation devices: These also come in 
categories, and within each category there are 
different styles. Remember when buying PFDs 
that they must have a Coast Guard approval stamp. 


Boats under 16 feet - one wearable or one 
throwable PFD for each person aboard or being 
towed by the boat. 

Boats 16 feet through 65 feet — one wearable 
PFD for each person aboard plus one throwable 
device ready to be tossed to a man overboard. 

All PFDs must be in good condition and accessible 
quickly in case of need. 

Fire extinguishers: These devices are classified 
according to the kind of fire they put out and the 
amount of contents. For small powerboats, ex¬ 
tinguishers classified B-I or B-II are most common. 
Vessels less than 26 feet in length are required to 
carry at least one B-I extinguisher if the boat has 
any enclosed compartment which might trap gaso¬ 
line fumes or other highly combustible materials. 
Even if your boat has no such compartments, it is 
at best foolish not to carry a fire extinguisher. 

Whistle or horn: Boats 16 to 26 feet long (but 
not boats under 16 feet) are required to carry a 
whistle or horn, which may be mouth-operated, 
hand-operated, or power-operated. Although boats 
less than 16 feet don’t specifically have to carry a 
whistle, they are required to make the necessary 
right-of-way and fog signals, for which a whistle is 
indispensable. 


6-1 



6-1 Equipment for Boats Less Than 16 Feet in Length 



6-2 Equipment for Boats 16 Feet to Less Than 26 Feet in Length 


6-2 






Backfire flame arrester: This device cools down 
backfires from the carburetor and is required on 
gasoline-powered inboard and outdrive engines, but 
not on outboards. 

Ventilation: Each engine and/or fuel compart¬ 
ment must be ventilated to prevent the collection 
of explosive gasoline fumes. A minimum of one 
intake vent, with tubing extended midway down 
into the vented compartment, and one exhaust 
vent, with tubing extended to near the bottom of 
the compartment, is required for each separate fuel 
and/or engine compartment. 


VENTILATION Combined Compartments 



Lights: Boats operating at night are required to 
display the lights listed in Chapter Five. 

Additional equipment: The equipment listed is, 
as noted earlier, minimal. Depending on where and 
how you use your boat, you should at least consider 
the following additional gear: 

Distress flares, for day and night; 

Anchor and anchor line, suitable for the 
waters cruised; 

Paddles or oars, where the size and arrange¬ 
ment of the boat make them usable; 

Bilge pump; 

First Aid kit; 

Tools and spare parts; 

Charts and compass. 


Courtesy Marine Examination 

Probably the best way of making sure that your 
boat is equipped properly and is in seaworthy 
condition is to arrange for a free Courtesy Marine 
Examination. Performed without charge by 
specially-trained members of the U. S. Coast Guard 
Auxiliary, this examination ensures that you have 
aboard, in working condition, all the Federally- 
required equipment and your state-required safety 
equipment. In addition, other gear and safety 
installations required by common sense and 
experience are also checked by your Auxiliary 
Examiner. 



6-4 Courtesy Marine Examination 


If your boat passes the Examination, you are 
awarded the annual CME decal. Displayed on your 
windshield, this decal certifies that your craft is 
equipped and rigged above Federal requirements. 
Unless you are visibly violating a law, your boat 
will not normally be stopped by Coast Guard 
boarding teams or by state or local marine police 
checking equipment. 

If your boat doesn’t at first pass the Examina¬ 
tion, no report of failure will be made to any law 
enforcement body. You will be told privately just 
why you didn’t pass, and after rectifying the prob¬ 
lem you will be issued a decal. Ask any Auxiliarist 
for more information about the CME program. 


6-3 





6-5 CME Decal 


Other Required Items 

Hull Identification Number: Boats built after 
October 31, 1972 must display on the outside of 
the transom a multiple-digit number supplied by 
the manufacturer. This number, at least 12 digits 
and/or letters, indicates the boat’s builder and date 
of construction. Numbers must be at least 1/4” 
high and affixed in such a way that removal would 
be obvious. 


r 




C 8 C 8 B 0 6 ^7 ^ .4 



6-6 Hull Identification Number 


Capacity information: Boats less than 20 feet 
long, construction of which began after October 31, 
1972, must have a capacity plate visible to the boat’s 
operator when he is getting the boat under way. 
The plates on outboard boats must show maximum 
horsepower, passenger capacity (pounds) and total 
load capacity (crew, engine, gear). Inboard, out¬ 
drive, and engineless boats must show passenger 
capacity and total load capacity, both in pounds. 


Exceptions: The following boats do not have to 
carry capacity information - multihulls, sailboats, 
canoes, kayaks, inflatable boats. 


u. s. COAST GUARD 

CAPACITY 
information 


MAXIMUM HORStPOWER 

maximum persons capacuy 


"anoaros IN ifkci ON thi ” GUaro 

TKt DATE OF CtRTIFlCATION 

modh- I ~~ •. 


^ 351 P.„ v , Flo. 3*347 ^ 

--- 



6-7 Capacity Plate and Certification of Compliance 

Manufacturer Certification of Compliance: 
Monohull boats less than 20 feet in length (except 
sailboats, canoes, kayaks and inflatables), con¬ 
struction of which began after October 31, 1972, 
must carry a label which reads as follows: “This 
Boat Complies with U. S. Coast Guard Safety 
Standards in Effect on Date of Certification.” 
(Or an actual date.) This label is often combined 
with the capacity plate. 

Numbering: Federal law now requires that all 
undocumented boats propelled by machinery must 
be registered. Most states have registration require¬ 
ments of their own beyond this bare minimum, so 
check with your state boating authority. Your 
boat will be issued numbers similar to the license 
numbers of your car — but you’ll have to provide 
your own license plate. The proper way to mount 
numbers (available at any marine store in the 
proper 3-inch size) is illustrated here. The spacing 
of the numbers is quite important, as is the require¬ 
ment for a contrasting background - light numbers 
on a dark hull, or vice versa. Your state may also 
issue an annual sticker to be applied alongside the 
registration numbers. 


6-4 




























Numbers are mounted on each side of the 
forward half of the vessel. Normally they are 
placed near the bow although when the hull is 
flared forward, numbers may be affixed to the hull 
anywhere forward of amidships or on the per¬ 
manent superstructure forward. 

When the boat is sold or transferred, the number 
normally stays with it (unless the new owner lives 
in another state). You must advise your state 
boating commission or equivalent agency of any 
such sale or transfer within the specified time listed 
on your boat registration. 



6-8 Registration Numbers 


Accident Reports 

The operator of any boat involved in an accident 
must stop, render assistance and offer identification. 
In accidents involving death or disappearance, the 
nearest reporting authority must be notified imme¬ 
diately. A written boating accident report is required 
within 24 hours if as a result of the accident a 
person dies, disappears from a vessel, or is injured 
and requires treatment beyond first aid. In addition, 
a written boating accident report must be sub¬ 
mitted within 10 days if a vessel is lost or damage 
to the vessel or other property exceeds $200. 

Boating accident report forms can be obtained 
from, and should be submitted to, the state boating 
authorities having jurisdiction on the waters on 
which the accident occurred. In jurisdictions 
which do not have an approved numbering system 
(Alaska, American Samoa, New Hampshire and 
Washington) the accident report form (CG-3865) 
can be obtained from the nearest Coast Guard 
Office or unit and should be submitted to the 
nearest Coast Guard Marine Inspection Office. The 
contents of accident reports are not made public. 

The best way you can avoid accident or injury 
on the water is to equip your vessel properly, use it 
with care, and continue your own boating educa¬ 
tion. The Coast Guard Auxiliary has several other 
courses open to the public, covering many other 
aspects of boating. You may also wish to consider 
membership in the Auxiliary. More information in 
either case is available from any Auxiliary member. 


6-5 



Chapter 6 

TEST YOURSELF 


Choose the correct answer for each question. 

1. A boatman’s basic legal responsibilities include 

1. Registering his boat with proper authorities 

2. Advising these authorities of sale, transfer 
or change of address 

3. Equipping the boat with certain legally- 
required gear 

4. All of the above 

2. Boats 16 feet long and longer must carry 

1. One wearable or throwable PFD 

2. One wearable PFD for each person aboard, 
plus one throwable PFD 

3. No throwable PFDs 

4. All throwable PFDs 

3. The backfire flame arrester is only required on 

1. Gasoline-powered outboard engines 

2. Gasoline-powered inboard or outdrive 
engines 

3. Boats from 26 to 65 feet in length, irre¬ 
spective of power 

4. On all gasoline engines, inboard, outboard 
and outdrive 

4. Beyond the legal requirements, you should 
also consider carrying 

1. Distress flares 

2. Bilge pump 

3. First Aid kit 

4. All of the above 

5. The Coast Guard Auxiliary Courtesy Marine 
Examination 

1. Is a check of legally-required gear and 
other safety equipment 

2. Is performed at no charge 

3. Is mandatory 

4. 1. and 2. above 


6. The Hull Identification Number 

1. Is molded into the bow 

2. Indicates the boat’s builder and date of 
construction 

3. Always shows the boat’s length 

4. All of the above 

7. Which of the following does not appear on a 
capacity plate of an outboard 

1. Boat length 

2. Maximum engine horsepower 

3. Passenger capacity in pounds 

4. Total load capacity (engine, crew, equip¬ 
ment) 

8. Federal law requires that all undocumented 
boats propelled by machinery 

1. Carry a capacity plate 

2. Be registered 

3. Be named 

4. All of the above 

9. When a boat is sold or transferred within a 
state, its number normally 

1. Stays with the original owner, for his next 
boat 

2. Is retired from circulation 

3. Stays with the boat, if the new owner 
lives in the same state 

4. None of the above 

10. In case of a boating accident, you must file a 
report in case of 

1. Death or disappearance 

2. Personal injury requiring treatment be¬ 
yond first aid 

3. Property damage in amount over $200.00 

4. Any of the above 


6-6 


TEST YOURSELF ANSWERS ON NEXT PAGE 


6-7 


ANSWERS TO SELF-TEST QUESTIONS 


Question 

No. 

Correct Answers for Chapter Number 

One 

Two 

Three 

Four 

Five 

Six 

1 

3 

3 

4 

4 

2 

4 

2 

1 

1 

1 

1 

3 

2 

3 

2 

2 

3 

2 

1 

2 

4 

3 

4 

4 

2 

2 

4 

5 

4 

4 

2 

4 

4 

4 

6 

4 

2 

2 

3 

2 

2 

7 

1 

4 

3 

2 

2 

1 

8 

3 

1 

1 

2 

3 

2 

9 

2 

3 

4 

4 

2 

3 

10 

4 

3 

4 

1 

3 

4 








































































































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